DOUBLE KATORI BLOUSE DRAFTING
BLOUSE DRAFTING
BY KK BOUTIQUE
KALAMUDDIN
AHMED
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
This entitled eBook “BLOUSE DRAFTING ” has been designed
For Double Katori blouse drafting by K.K.BOUTIQUE
YOUTUBE CHANNEL, A professional custom Tailor Master. Mr. Kalamuddin Ahmed Guwahati ( Assam )
SUBSCRIBE
OUR CHANNEL here
FOLLOW US
FACEBOOK here
INSTAGRAM here
TWITTER here
LINKEDIN here
PINTEREST here
BRA CUT BLOUSE DRAFTING PROCESS
MEASUREMENTS
TO BE TAKEN
|
FROM BACK |
||
|
1 |
LENGTH |
|
|
2 |
SHOULDER |
|
|
3 |
BACK DEEP |
|
|
FROM FRONT |
||
|
4 |
CHEST |
|
|
5 |
BUST |
|
|
6 |
WAIST |
|
|
7 |
BUST POINT |
|
|
8 |
FRONT DEEP |
|
|
FROM SLEEVES |
||
|
9 |
LENGTH |
|
|
10 |
ARM ROUND |
|
|
11 |
ARMHOLE |
|
UNDERSTAND THE INCHE
TAPE
BACK DRAFTING
Details for back drafting
|
STEP No. |
REFERENCE POINT |
DETAILS |
|
1 |
A |
Starting point |
|
2 |
A - B |
Total
length of the blouse + ½ inches of seams allowance |
|
3 |
A - K |
Armhole depth according to measurement |
|
4 |
K - L |
¼ of Chest +
ease |
|
5 |
B – M |
¼ of waist |
|
6 |
M – O |
Extra 1 inches for back dart |
|
7 |
B – N |
Middle of B – M |
|
8 |
A – C |
½ of Shoulder
according to back neck deep |
|
9 |
A – D |
Bust/12 for neck width |
|
10 |
K – T |
Same as A – D |
|
11 |
K – Q |
Same as A - C |
WE DESIGN FOR STANDARD FORMULA
FOR DIFFERENT NECK DEEP
NOTE: Chest Loose Depends On customer Needs.
|
NECK DEEP |
A – C +3/8 inches seams allowance |
EXTRA + - |
For 15 INCHES Example |
CHEST |
EXTRA + - |
|
0 |
½ of Shoulder |
0 |
7.5 |
(Bust +ease/2) – 2 inches
|
+0.5 inches |
|
1 |
½ of
Shoulder |
0 |
7.5 |
(Bust +ease/2) – 2 inches |
+0.5
inches |
|
3 |
½ of Shoulder |
0 |
7.5 |
(Bust +ease/2) – 2
inches |
+0.5 inches |
|
4 |
½ of
Shoulder |
-0.25
inches |
7.25 |
(Bust +ease/2) – 2 inches |
+0.5
inches |
|
5 |
½ of Shoulder |
-0.5 inches |
7 |
(Bust +ease/2) – 2
inches |
+0.5 inches |
|
6 |
½ of
Shoulder |
-0.75
inches |
6.75 |
(Bust +ease/2) – 2 inches |
+0.5
inches |
|
7 |
½ of Shoulder |
-1 inches |
6.5 |
(Bust +ease/2) – 2
inches |
+0.25 inches |
|
8 |
½ of
Shoulder |
-1.25
inches |
6.25 |
(Bust +ease/2) – 2 inches |
+0.25
inches |
|
9 |
½ of Shoulder |
-1.5 inches |
6 |
(Bust +ease/2) – 2
inches |
+0.25 inches |
|
10 |
½ of
Shoulder |
-1.75
inches |
5.75 |
(Bust +ease/2) – 2 inches |
0
inches |
|
11 |
½ of Shoulder |
-2 inches |
5.5 |
(Bust +ease/2) – 2
inches |
-0.25 inches |
|
12 |
½ of
Shoulder |
-2.25
inches |
5.25 |
(Bust +ease/2) – 2 inches |
-0.5
inches |
BRA CUT BLOUSE FRONT
DRAFTING
FRONT DRAFTING OF BRA CUT
BLOUSE
|
STEP No |
REFERENCE POINT |
DETAILS |
|
1 |
A |
Starting point |
|
2 |
A - B |
Total Length
of the blouse + ½ inches seams allowance |
|
3 |
A - K |
Armhole depth according
to measurement |
|
4 |
K – L |
¼ of Chest
+ ease |
|
5 |
B – M |
¼ waist |
|
6 |
M - N |
Extra 1
inch for Back dart |
|
7 |
B – N |
Middle of B - M |
|
8 |
A – C |
½ of
Shoulder according to back neck deep |
|
9 |
A - D |
Neck width |
|
10 |
K – T |
Same as A
- D |
|
11 |
K - Q |
Same as A - C |
|
12 |
D - P |
Bust Point
|
|
13 |
D – J |
Katori side
part neck joint point See Chart Below |
|
14 |
F – G |
½ of Cup
size Standard measurements given below |
|
15 |
G - H |
½ of F – G (– 0.25 inches ) Chart below |
|
16 |
E – F |
Katori
size point Standard Chart given below |
|
17 |
I – G |
Same as E – F + 0.25 inches |
|
18 |
R – S |
Automatically
will come from bust measurement and also standard Chart given below |
|
19 |
U – V |
Same as R – S |
|
20 |
V – W |
½ of Cup
size + 3/8 seams allowance top and bottom side |
|
21 |
W – X |
Middle of E – F |
STANDARD CHART FOR
DRAFTING BRA CUT BLOUSE ALL SIZES
|
Actual bust |
Bust after ease |
Bust+ease/2-2inch=Chest |
Bust Point D – P |
Katori width E – F |
Below bust Point F - H |
Above bust H - G |
Total cup size F - G |
Neck width A - D |
|
30 |
32 |
30 |
8.5 |
5 |
1.5 |
1 |
2.5 |
2.5 |
|
32 |
34 |
32 |
8.75 |
5 |
1.5 |
1 |
2.5 |
2.5 |
|
34 |
36 |
34 |
9 |
5.25 |
1.5626 |
1.0625 |
2.625 |
2.625 |
|
36 |
38 |
36 |
9.5 |
5.5 |
1.625 |
1.125 |
2.75 |
2.75 |
|
38 |
40 |
38 |
10 |
5.75 |
1.6875 |
1.1875 |
2.875 |
2.875 |
|
40 |
42 |
40 |
10.25 |
6 |
1.75 |
1.25 |
3 |
3 |
|
42 |
44 |
42 |
10.5 |
6.25 |
1.8125 |
1.3125 |
3.125 |
3.125 |
|
44 |
46 |
44 |
10.75 |
6.75 |
1.875 |
1.375 |
3.25 |
3.25 |
|
46 |
48 |
46 |
11 |
7 |
1.9375 |
1.4375 |
3.375 |
3.375 |
|
48 |
50 |
48 |
11.25 |
7.25 |
2 |
1.5 |
3.5 |
3.5 |
|
50 |
52 |
50 |
11.5 |
7.5 |
2.1 |
1.625 |
3.625 |
3.625 |
SLEEVES DRAFTING
|
STEP No |
REFERENCE POINT |
DETAILS |
|
1 |
A |
Stating point |
|
2 |
A – B |
Length of
Sleeves |
|
3 |
A – C |
Cap height Chart given
below |
|
4 |
B – E |
Sleeves round
|
|
5 |
C – D |
From back drafting C-
L – ¼ inch |
|
6 |
F – G |
½ inch |
·
CAP HEIGHT STANDARD CHART
|
30 |
32 |
34 |
36 |
38 |
40 |
42 |
44 |
46 |
48 |
50 |
|
2.75 inches |
3 inches |
3.25 inches |
3.5 inches |
3.75 inches |
3.75 inches |
4 inches |
4 inches |
4 inches |
4.25 inches |
4.25 inches |
Download pdf 👉 Here
Comments
Post a Comment